June 3 - Homeward Bound

Friday, June 3 - Homeward Bound

Heading home today on Air France via Paris.

Paris Airport

Ken in Florence

Starting on Monday - June 6th, you can follow my Americade Motorcycle trip on the blog site:
www.ontape.ca/americade

June 2 - Florence, Italy

Thursday, June 2 - Florence, Italy

Well our 10 days in Italy is just about at the end, we fly home on Friday, so today is some last minute shopping and packing.

Charles and I are shopping at Florence by Bike, which is a very well appointed (lots of stuff) bike store.  [http://www.florencebybike.it/index.php?lang=en] 

Karen and Sherry are looking for shoes, so that assignment is better left to them, I can report that Sherry did find some, I think Karen is shopped out.

In the evening we have reservations at what has become one of our favourite restaurants called, Baldovino [http://www.baldovino.com/] and we have an outdoor table right on the street, behind the Santa Croce.  The photo below says it all, Karen and I had a great time in Italy and especially in Florence and Siena, we are already planning a return visit, which I think will be sooner than the last one which was 2002, I can't believe it was 9 years ago that we were here, it did seam at times it was only yesterday.

All of us at Baldovino

Tomorrow we will head back to Canada on Air France via Paris.

June 1 - Florence, Italy

Wednesday, June 1 - Florence, Italy

There is rain forecast for today, and right on que at 12:30 it rained for 5 minutes, and then the sun came out.

Today Karen and I are exploring the Monte alle Croce (Viale Michalangeo), with a commanding view of the city  from a very high vantage point.  It does take over 1 1/2 hours of walking (uphill most of the way) to reach this area.  It might not have been the most direct, and we may have been off by one street to the West, but worth it, as we saw some fantastic hillside homes and villas of the more prosperous Florenctino's.

Of course there is a church which is the centre point on the hilltop, and this might not be considered a “primary” church of Florence, but it was totally marble, and no expense was spared in its construction back in the 1600's.

The walk down was a bit easier, and Karen now remembers the route she took last Sunday to reach the Monte alle Croce was not the one we took to reach the top, oh well as I said it was worth the hike.

In the evening we found another outstanding restaurant, just about 3 blocks from the apartment called, Ristorante Mamma Gina [http://www.mammagina.it/], thus another 2 liter wine night. We highly recommend adding this to your list of places to eat in Florence.

May 31 - Siena, Italy

Tuesday, May 31 – Siena

Today we explored the medieval town of Siene, nestled in the hills of Tuscany. The town's narrow streets and high walls were built to withstand the armies of Florence in 1260. One of the main attractions was the shell-shaped Piazzo del Campo crowded with an intermingling of tourists and locals. The Torre del Mangia with its 290 ft. height drew large groups of tourist due the views of the city when you got to the top. We chose instead to tour the Museo Civico or City Museum full of frescoes depicting early Italian history. From its rooftop, we had a great viewpoint of the reddish orange brick buildings spread out over the hills.

Ken and Karen

Sherry and Charles

Web site: http://www.comune.siena.it/

At the end of one of its winding streets, we caught our first sight of the exquisite Duomo di Sante Maria dell Assunte with the white and pink sculpted inlaid marble with bands of green and white circling the bottom. Inside we were fascinated with the intricate red, black and white marble designs covering large sections of the floor. Paintings of figures from the Old Testament graced the walls and the many separate alcoves. The library included a collection of frescoes and statues which continued in the attached Museu dell 'Opera Metropolitanna.

Front of the Duomo

Ceiling of the Duomo

Satisfied and exhausted, we finished the day in Caffe Pontevecchio over Campari and Gin and Tonic with coni con mousse al zafferano cakes before returning to the train for our return trip to Florence.

May 30 - Florence, Italy

Monday, May 30 - Florence

Today was a late start, we didn't get out to shop until way after lunch time.  On Monday, a number of stores did not open until after 1pm anyway, but Karen had some shops to visit and a few purchases to be made, plus I wanted a leather bracelet, so we spent the afternoon shopping in Florence.

We had dinner in one of the best restaurants in Florence, called Baldovino.

Location is:  Via San Giuseppe 22/r, Florence, Italy; phone: 055-241773

well worth it, we are going back again for our last nights dinner in Florence.

May 29 - San Marino (RSM)

Sunday, May 29 -  San Marino (RSM)

Feeling more like a day for a train trip, and Karen showing no interesting in spending a few hours on TranItallia it was time for another great adventure to one of the worlds smallest country, San Marino.  So lets be very clear, this is a country, not a provence of Italy, (San Marino makes this very clear, I sense a tension between RSM and Italy, which must be over the "tax free" status RSM has), there is no boarder formality either, but for Euro 5, they will stamp your passport with a very ornate stamp.

Getting here evolved two trains and a change in Bologna.  I departed from Florence on the high speed Eurostar (TVG) for the 40 min trip at 254kmh, most of which is spent in some very long tunnels, I would say that 90% is underground, now a new revelation - WITH COMPLETE AND FULL CELL SERVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Eurostar HST/TVG 300kmh+ Train

A 20 minute stop and change of trains in Bologna and now I am Southeast bound on the Regional Express train (did get up to 160kmh), lots of stops, very attractive country side, but a dry area, they could use some rain.  This train is heading for the costal town of Rimini on the Adriatic Sea, arriving just in time to NOT catch the 10:38 bus to San Marino, which I would not have caught anyway, as they seem to depart early anyway, this gives me about an 1hour and a half to get lunch and hang out at the train station, saw a number of passengers trains, but this is the East Coast line with no high speed equipment, there are a few diesel lines from here as well.

Now purchasing a bus ticket for San Marino, is another adventure, as all the shops have signs saying “NO Information on San Marino”, and the “NO” part is in big letters. There of course is a reason for the big “NO”, the locals in Rimini, don't want you to go to San Marino, as they are losing business to this TAX FREE country, which has 3 million visitors per year and get most of its revenue from tourists. Anyway about 30 minutes before the bus departs a woman arrives to sell tickets and she works for the local bus line providing this service.

Web Sites: http://www.sanmarinosite.com/eng/index.php

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Marino

Of note check out the citizenship requirements for naturalization (hint it is not 5 years)

Arriving in San Marino, ones first impression is this place is very high up, it is over 3,800ft, above the land below and the bus trip is a series of switchbacks for the 30km trip in 50 minutes. But everything is well organized, large and efficient bus and car parking (all for a fee of course), elevators cut into the rock takes you up to the main terrace and the shopping area, which is full of souvenir shops, watch shops, restaurants, and gun shops. Because San Marino has the most unrestricted gun laws in Europe, one can obtain your sub machine guns and any other light duty weapon which might be required for a daily outing in the Italian country side. Most of the walkways are 15% up and some are steep, but there is a steady stream of people interested in buying stuff, this reminded me of Clifton Hill area in Niagara Falls, ON, on a Sunday.

There were a number of motorcycle groups in on BMW's lead by a couple on a Gold Wing with Italian flags flying, (whole group over 50 on sport bikes, wearing the latest in bike clothing in ballistic fabric). Handout my Route 66 business cards, some spoke very good english, one had done 66 back in 2004, these folks had come up from Perugia area and do a ride just about every Sunday, sounds like my group SCRC 238.

After touring the area I found a car park with about 40 cars, all vintage MGB's and FIATs, all part of the San Marino International Automobile race, maybe this was the advanced party for the Gumball 3000 race up in Venice that day, [http://www.gumball3000.com/] but no celebrities in sight nor any fashionable women handing out Red Bull wearing bikinis, disappointed it was time to depart this mountain top country, with it's own cell service company (ie. Roaming inside of Italy), and head back to the bus, but with one important stop for a Campari with red orange and a twist of lemon, just in case the bus wiped out on turn #8 or something like that.

Train connections are better on the return again via Bologna, but what I realized is even if you have an assigned seat on the train there is always someone in your seat, but they will move out if asked, however, this is vital intelligence which plays into the next train segment.

Upon arrival in Bologna, my Eurostar TVG back to Florence is delayed by 20minutes, OK, that is not much. A bit surprising as this is the first train so far that has not been on time, and as a traveller any delay of over 30minutes, results in a free trip, so they take on-time performance very seriously (sure which GO Transit felt the same way). The display changed from 20min to 30min to 40min, in the space of 10min. So plan B is now in play, there is another Eurostar due in 5 minutes to Florence, I noticed that a number of people also took the plan B option. Now this is how it works, just take any seat as so far seat assignments are only a suggestion, kind of like stop signs in Italy are only a suggestion. Anyway after the mad push to get on, the other options is to site in the passageway between cars, it is only 40minutes in a dark tunnel anyway. No one ever checked my ticket on the return, I guess the conductor could not get through the train.

Arrived back in Florence, having visited a country that caught my attention back in grade 9 geography class, and completed all of the three European micro countries, another check mark on the bucket list!

PS: Visit San Marino, you will not be disappointed, plus it snows there in Winter, I saw photos of snow, not a lot, a cold wave from them is -3c and the record cold is -6c, we can beat that in Niagara for sure.

Web Sites: http://www.sanmarinosite.com/eng/index.php

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Marino

May 28 - Florence, Italy

Saturday, May 28 - Florence, Italy (Santa Croce)

Following a leisurely breakfast in the apartment, we made our way in bright sunshine to the Piazza Pitti where a huge gelato festival was underway. Our flavours today were cafe and hazelnut, both very creamy. We made our way through the crowds to Santa Croce piazza and duomo which was constructed in 1874 in the Moorish style. The duomo contains significant artworks—Giotta frescoes, Donetello's crucifixion, Museum dell' Opera, and the tombs of Galileo, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Michelanglo, Danta Aligheri, Machiavelli, Leonardo Bruni, and Rossini.

We wound our way back over the Pointe Vecchio bridge, a major intersection in this area of Florence, and stopped for bread and water always necessary provisions. Our dinner tonight, prepared by the four of us, was a fine spaghetti with pesto, puccino cheese and, of course, free flowing Chianti Classico.

Tomb of Galileo

May 27 - Orvieto, Italy

May 27 - The Historic Hill Town of Orvieto, Italy

Today we are travelling by train to one of the more famous Hill Towns of Italy, Orvieto. We are departing on the 9:13, Regional Train, (ie makes stops, about 7), our train equipment is a 8 car push/pull electric engine, with both first and second class seats. The first class is actually and 6 seat compartment, nice but the windows rattle, and when passed by a Eurostart at 300kmh almost get blown in. Our arrival in Orvieto is right on time, 11:32.

Access to the town is by funicular (cable railway) straight up the hill (€ 1), takes 60 seconds. This town was created in the in Roman times, but existed long before. [http://www.comune.orvieto.tr.it/]

Orvieto, sitting on its impregnable rock had control over the road between Florence and Rome where it crossed the Chiana River. It was a large town: its population numbered about 30,000 at the end of the 13th century. Its municipal institutions already recognized in a papal bull of 1157, from 1201 Orvieto governed itself through a “podesta”, who was as often as not the bishop, however, acting in concert with a military governor, the "captain of the people". In the 13th century Pope Urban IV stayed at Orvieto in (1262-1264) he built the famous St. Patrick well, so that the city always had a source of water if the city ever came under siege during war. Of note the city was never attacked.

Lunch spot

We had lunch on the Via Duomo, in an open street cafe, an omelette with mushrooms, cheese and truffles, to die for, and of course a bottle of Orvieto Clasico (a famous white wine of the region).

After lunch we explored several of the underground caves. The city of Orvieto has long kept the secret of its labyrinth of caves and tunnels that lie beneath the surface. Dug deep into the tuff, a volcanic rock, they are spectacular nature and has also yielded many historical and archeological finds. [http://www.pozzodellacava.it/ The underground city boasts tunnels, galleries, wells, stairs, quarries, cellars, unexpected passageways, cisterns, superimposed rooms with numerous small square niches, detailing its creation over the centuries. Many of the homes of noble families were equipped with a means of escape from the elevated city during times of siege through secret escape tunnels carved from the soft rock. The tunnels would lead from the city palazzo to emerge at a safe exit point some distance away from city walls.

Orvieto Street (Via)

After an afternoon of exploring tunnels wine cellars etc, it was time for some gelato (ice cream) and some rest time.

We found an excellent street side restaurant on Corso Cavour for pizza and two more bottles of red clasico wine, thus making this our first three bottle day.

After our dinner we retuned down the hill on the funicular which is across from the railway station. Upon our arrival the night train to Munich and the North arrives, with sleeping and dining cars. This was followed by a freight train, Northbound followed by a Southbound freight and local regional passenger train. Our return train to Florence is a Eurostar High Speed train, which switches off the separate high speed line comes into Orvieto picks up passengers and returns to the high speed line. We reached speeds of 254km + on our return trip, which was very smooth (silk like) and very quite, and only took 1 ½ hours to return.

A long day in the Italian Country side comes to and end around 11:30pm.

May 26 - Florence, Italy

This was a late start day, for some reason we did not get going until way after 11am, and Karen was still in a shopping mood, so we hit the high end shops in Florence, Prada, Guess, and Hugo Boss, etc..  Karen finaly found these gloves she was looking for, from the Martelli Glove Factory, I think she is still in "Birthday mode". [http://www.martelligloves.it/]

But the best part of the day is the [http://www.firenzegelatofestival.it/] Firenze Gelato Festival which is right across the street of the arpartment.  Who would beleive entire city participating in an Gelato (ice cream) festival anyway they have thousands out for this event, and it runs at night to 12 midnight.  Plus the card (a gelato card) can be used for free passage on all city buses, just out of this world.

For the evening we went for dinner at a local resturant, a bit more casual then last night but the food is excellent.

Tomorrow we are heading off on a rail trip to Orvieto, which is a hill top town, we are heading down by train from Florence.
[http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/01orvieto.htm]

So look for some photos from this excursion.

May 25 - Florrence, Italy

May 25 - Florrence, Italy

This is our first full day in Florence, and we awake to sunny and hot (+31c) at 8am, later in the day it will reach +35c for a high.

Today we are going to take the special bus to the Barberino Designer Outlet mall which is a 45minute trip to the Northwest on the Autostrada (A1), which is a toll road, electronic of course.  There are about 100 stores from Prada to Puma offering 30% to 70% off, but this is very much like a North American factory outlet mall in Canada or the US. 

As this is Karen's birthday she gets to pick up out her gift and get to pay, now that is a deal.

After spending 3+ hours going from store to store, I am ready to return (get me out of here), now I did find a few things for myself, so I can't complain that much.

On our return to Florence, we head for the Vodaphone store to get a Italian SIM card for my phone so I can switch over to a more cost effective service, like 9cents per minute vs $2.00 per minute and free incoming calls, would never see these rates at home, we are gouged at home for sure.

Florence - River Arno

To celebrate Karen's Birthday we are all going to the Trattoria 4 Leoni [http://www.4leoni.com/] and had a wonderful dinner, the resturant is located only about 2 blocks form our apartment, but reservations are a must this spot is so popular that it is a 4 days in advance, you can set in side but we have a table outside, right on the street.  This may sound unpleasent, but it this back lane has zero cars, becasuse they won't fit between the buildings.  The food and astomphere was out of this world.

All of us at Karen's Birthday in Florence

May 24 - Paris, France / Florence, Italy

May 24 - Paris, France / Florence, Italy

After a 7 hour flight from Toronto, we are now in Paris, at the airport, waiting for our next flight to Florence, Italy.  Other than showing our passports in Paris, there are NO other forms to complete and our luggage is sent straight through to Florence - Very Civilized, but again this France.

Our flight from Toronto was only half full, but the arriving flight from Paris had 400+ on board.  Once our flight was loaded we left 10mins early, French don't waste any time.

After a two hour layover in Paris we are off to Florence, Italy on CityJet (owned by Air France), we arrive on time in the small airport in Florence, claim our bags and catch a taxi to the apartment that our Daugheter and Son-in-Law have rented.  Just a note you do not go through any custom or passport control once you are inside the EU.  The Europens would not put up with the nonsesen we face between Canada and the US.

Dinner in Florence on our first evening

We had our first evening dinner in a delightful stree side cafe in the heart of the Uffizi district.

** SPOT Note **

I decided not to take my SPOT Satellite Tracker on this trip, one less thing to lose and Europe is just a bit safer than South America was.  I do have an interesting story on Ecuador which I need to share on the blog.  So the "Location" link will not return our location.

Getting Ready for Italy

Well we are almost done packing, leaving tomorrow for a 10day vacation in Florence, Italy.